Surfer, what it means to be one.
We are afraid. We froze to the bones. The wait feels too long. We get tired. We are thrown away. But we go back. And try harder. And put on our wet and cold wetsuit. We feel the cold air on our skin and get pulled under freezing water. The sun is shining, or it’s raining or there’s a storm coming. Anyway, we choose to paddle out over and over again. Because there is a point on doing so and we grow from it every time. Because we enjoy every ride. We feel the life around us and inside us. We embrace every moment and thank for every wave. We were born to be surfers.