Yes, I’m in love. And it’s one of those loves that just grow better instead of slowly blending with monotony. It still strikes me how I feel the day I’ve surfed. I’m just happy. Everything looks better. Life looks better. Even if it was awful, who cares, I’ve surfed. I may have been cold, I wiped out, I didn’t catch that perfect wave… Anyway, I surfed.
It fills me with joy. May it be too presumptuous to attribute such a big influence that a sport is to my life? Well, maybe.
If someone had told me, when I was younger, that I’d become a surfer, (because no matter what level I have or achieve, I consider myself a surfer girl) I would not believe it. Not that I wasn’t an active or sportive girl. But I had not much interest in sport further than having fun or doing it because it was good.
Surfing is a different world. It’s not doing sport. I would do sport in order to get fit for surfing. Surfing feels like a real passion. It’s something I want to keep doing for the rest of my life, preferably every day. I don’t care if it’s not my work, I don’t care if I cannot get to the awesomest waves around the world. I just mind surfing as often as possible.
I want to slide down the face of the wave, touch the swirling water, ride the lip, turn around… feel the drops in my face, salty hair and lips, skin softened by the sun… And a bit of fear, tiredness and falls, rolling underwater…
It is just pure fun, it is pure love.
At the beginning of last week I went to a too-fast business travel to Italy. And even I had almost no time to think or see anything I remembered that italian saying that goes “Dolce far niente”, translated as the pleasure of doing nothing, but better expressed as “delicious idleness”. It hit me because a few weeks ago, (or maybe just two ) I watched the movie “Eat, Pray , Love” starring Julia Roberts. In that movie they talked about it when in Italy.
That made me think about it and I realised it is an idea I could embrace easily. Why? Well, it seems that nowadays, in order to live, you must be doing something all the time. And if we have nothing to do right now, we check our phone.
I don’t believe in that lifestyle. Why bother trying to get distracted all the time? I believe that when you are busy all the time it’s because you’re trying to avoid doing something else.
How can Delicious Idleness improve our life?
Mindfulness has being gaining popularity. The practice of being present. For me, it’s Delicious Idleness. I’d just love having some time for resting my mind and body while being somewhere I like. Time of my own. It’s not wasted time, in fact is a precious time gained, because it helps me choose what direction to take in life. Usually, I’d be laying under the sun in the garden, hearing the birds, sheep, breeze and random sounds. Or, while surfing, I’d be waiting for the next set of waves, feeling that peaceful state of relax and awareness. That’s even better, because there are those moments when I have to stop thinking, empty my mind and concentrate to catch a wave.
To somebody else it could be anything else, like driving or cooking or colouring a page or writing about your day…
What brings you a kind of inner peace?